It might seem like closing the barn door after the cows have gotten out here in Nashville, but what better time to review the male sartorial protocol for white tie, or, full dress, events than shortly following the Swan Ball.
Every year in the waning weeks prior to Nashville’s most prestigious social event, we get dozens of phone calls from our customers regarding just what the appropriate attire is. And every July, we open up the latest issue of NFocus only to cringe at the near and way far misses some of Nashville’s gentleman-who-should-know-better. So, here’s a checklist of white tie imperatives, so that you won’t show up looking like someone who found their money by the side of the road, and didn’t know what to do with it:
(1) Black tails coat and matching formal trousers. This is called a full dress, or evening coat, as opposed to the morning coat, or cutaway coat which is also a tails coat, but is obliquely “cut away” in front. The full dress coat is horizontally cut away in front and has the appearance of being double breasted, although it is not to be buttoned, or even to have the capacity to be buttoned. Both are derivatives of the coats worn at all times during the Regency period, and were cut short in front to enable functionality while riding a horse.
Ron Samuels looking dapper as ever in his J. Michaels tails. Image courtesy of NFocus Magazine.
(2) A notch lapel on a tails coat is not only entirely inappropriate but one of the most common mistakes seen in formalwear and sets apart those who are fluent in the realm of social awareness and those who don’t take the time to understand the environment into which they’ve been thrust. When it comes to tails (and even tuxedos for that matter) peak lapels are it; otherwise, you might as well be wearing a black suit and holding a champagne filled platter. The lapels of the coat should be covered with black silk, either satin or grosgrain (if you’re having one made, request grosgrain—the majority of off-the-rack full dress suits are made with satin lapels). The trousers, of course are beltless, plain bottom hemmed, and have a single braid of matching satin or grosgrain down the side of each leg in the U.S., and a double braid down the side of each leg in Europe. Flat front or pleated trousers are each appropriate.
Owen Kelly looks the part and makes a big entrance. Image courtesy of NFocus
(3) White broadcloth or voile shirt with a heavy cotton pique bib front, matching pique wing collar, and matching pique French cuff (most preferably and appropriately single layer, but a fold over cuff is also acceptable). There are no exceptions. This is the shirt.
David Anderson's tails fit like a glove, would you expect anything less of him or us? Image courtesy of NFocus
(4) Matching white cotton pique bow tie. When we say matching, what we mean is the very same fabric as the bibbing, cuff and collar on the shirt.
(5) White cotton pique vest, the fabric of which, you guessed it, matches the tie and pique fabric of the shirt. (Hey, how hard is this, gentlemen? There’s no guess work, and you can buy one outfit and wear it for as long as you can fit into it.) It is imperative that the bottom of the vest not extend below the bottom of the front of the coat, and, at the same time, extend below the waistband of the trouser. So, if you choose to go to the rental place and rent full dress attire that’s been worn by 40 other people, and you’re being helped by someone whose only experience with any sort of formal attire is the powder blue “tuxedo” he wore to his senior prom, make sure you instruct him as to the proper length of the vest in relation to your other articles of clothing.
Frank Garrison's studly getup. Image courtesy of NFocus.
(6) Mother of Pearl studs and cufflinks. These are specific to full dress. They can be gold or silver rimmed, but silver is definitely preferable. Rhodium substitutes for Sterling, but, of course Sterling (or better yet, platinum) is the set that your grandsons will fight over.
Damon Byrd's foxy stud set, an elegant alternative, showcased his love of fox hunting. Image courtesy of NFocus.
(7) Black over the calf silk or fine gauge Merino wool socks. Some more refined hosiery might have a very fine pindot pattern.
Bill Armistead, one of our favorite people in the universe, showing how it's done. Image courtesy of NFocus.
(8) The traditional footwear for full dress is a velvet, patent leather, or calfskin pump, with a crest or grosgrain bow. My one break with tradition would be to ditch the bow. It’s superfluous, and way beyond it’s time. I would also say that a lace up plain-toed formal balmoral in patent leather or velvet (I actually own a black corduroy bal) is perfectly appropriate today. But, every accomplished gentleman should own a formal shoe. A black Gucci bit loafer is not a formal shoe, nor is a black cap toe. If you are going to go to formal events, don’t stop two feet short of dressing appropriately for the occasion.
Optional items include: white silk braces (ten years ago I would have included them in the imperative section and still think they finish the look today, even though they are hardly ever seen); top hat (a bit over the top..get it.. top—top hat…these days); opera cape for added warmth in the colder months or to fold up and lay your head upon and go to sleep if you’re ever forced to go to the opera; and, finally a tipped black cane, in case you need to give the valet parker a rap across his shoulders for driving your new Porsche Panamerica like a bat out of hell.
With these helpful tidbits, hopefully, you will feel fully at ease entering into the world of the most formal of affairs, and therefore, won’t be found slouching over the punch bowl, drowning out your embarrassment for sticking out like a biker at a church social just because you didn’t know the protocol beforehand.
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